Making a Wig with a Lace Closure

Published By: Kennedy

Last Updated: June 2, 2022

I’m sure many of us have waited long for a $200+ wig to come in the mail, just to finally see it wasn’t all we wanted it to be. This constant disappointment is the very thing that drives many people to make their own wig.

Making your own wig can seem like a daunting task at first, but it is actually not as hard as it looks. With the right supplies, you could be making wigs people would pay good money for – and it will be your style!

How to Make a Wig with a Lace Closure

1. Apply the Wig Cap onto Wig Head

Making a wig first begins with a base, which is a wig cap. The cap that you use can either be a nylon or mesh cap. You can use whatever suits your preferences the best. A nylon cap is very secure and gives a flesh-colored base. 

A mesh cap is breathable and great for long-lasting wear. You also want to have a good wig head to work with. There are wig heads you can buy in different sizes. 

You will need to measure your head to buy the right size, or your wig will either be too small or too big. For example, my head is 23 inches in circumference. Having a wig head and stand will help you easily construct the wig. 

When you place the cap onto the wig head, you need to pull the cap down at the bottom and pin it to get a natural hairline placement. Also, make sure you take note of which side of the wig head is the front and which side is the back. 

2. Place the Closure on the Cap

After you apply your wig cap onto your wig head, then you need to pin your closure onto the net. There are many different closures you can get, in different sizes. 

The two most popular closures are lace and silk. Lace is a sheer material that reveals the natural skin underneath. Lace is see-through, the grids are visible, and also the knots where the hair is attached are also visible. Lace is a very flexible and breathable option, it is also cheaper. 

Silk closures are made with silk on the bottom. It does not have grids like the lace does, but rather a smooth and thick base that resembles a scalp. Silk closures are harder to lay flat than lace closures, but if you are looking to be more flexible in the way you part your hair, a silk closure is better for scalp imitation.  

If you are trying to figure out what closure will work best for you, just remember that lace closures are more for practical use and silk closures are more durable and look more realistic. However, lace closures are easier to work with, so they are better for beginners.

The closure can be tricky to keep in place, so using hairpins will help it stay still while you sew it onto the cap. You want to sew the edges of the closure onto the cap, except for the front. When you are done sewing, just knot the thread where you ended.

Also read: Lace Closure vs Silk Closure

3. Sew on The Tracks

Once you have your closure in place, you can start sewing your bundles onto the cap. Folding a track in half before sewing it on will give you more density. You need to start at the bottom when sewing on your wig. You can go over and under or under and over the track with the thread. 

Nylon thread is best for constructing a wig, because cotton thread tends to absorb moisture and break. When sewing, start at one end of the track and push the needle through the cap and over the track with the thread – thus attaching it to the cap. 

Do not pierce straight through the track with the thread, because that can cause the track to be damaged and not last as long. The only time you should sew through the track is when you are making your first stitch.

Also, if you are starting at the very bottom of the cap and it has a thick edge, only sew through the mesh, or else the wig will be too tight. You can use hairpins to pin the track in place to make it easier to sew onto the cap. Keep sewing the tracks onto the cap until the whole cap is covered.

4. Cut Hair to Frame 

After you are finished sewing on the closure and the tracks, you can try on your wig and see how well it frames your face. You may need to cut the wig to make it look more natural on you. You also may need to loosen tracks that feel too tight at this stage. Cutting layers into the hair is a great way to add volume, especially for curly hair.[1]

5. Style as You Like

At this point, you can now style your wig. The most beneficial part about making your own wig is that you can do exactly what you want to it. Styling can be straightening or adding curls, coloring, or applying any other products.

In order to make the closure look seamless, you will probably have to bleach the knots on the lace to make the hair look like it is growing out of the scalp. You can also use a hot comb and wax bar to lay the hair flatter on the closure. You can also style your baby hairs in a way that hides the grids of the lace closure. 

How Long Does it Take to Make a Wig?

This process usually takes about an hour or two. Making your own wig takes significantly shorter time than installing a weave, and costs less than buying a lace front wig

What is the Difference Between a Closure and Frontal?

You don’t have to only use a closure to complete your wig, you also have the option of a frontal. While a closure is usually a 4X4 patch of lace or silk, a frontal is wider in length – extending from ear to ear and going about 5 inches to the back of the head.[2]

 A frontal provides more parting options than a closure, but is more difficult to install.  A closure is smaller and easier to apply on your wig. A frontal is also more expensive than a closure. 

Read more: What is the Difference Between a Frontal and a Closure?

The Final Word

Making a wig is a rewarding experience that is great to try for yourself, especially if the wigs you buy are not checking all of your boxes. 

As with any other process, practice makes perfect, but perfecting this process is definitely worth it.


I have always had a love for writing and have been blogging for about 3 years now. I have a passion for teaching what I have learned over the years, especially about hair. I have had almost every hairstyle - typical of a cosmetologist’s daughter- including the big chop in 2015. With all the knowledge I have gained, I feel it is my duty to help others on their healthy hair journey. I believe education can be fun, and I strive to make it fun to learn about beautiful black hair.

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